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DUAL
PERSONALITY
A Madrona bistro proves you can be both polished
and neighborly
By Nancy Leson
From its fiery walls to the thrum of Latin guitar,
to the flattering glow of candlelight reflected
in the storefront windows, Dulces has "footsie"
written all over it. What's more, that ooh-baby-baby
appeal holds true whether the clientele is heavy
on babes in black or babes in arms: proof that
this is, after all, a neighborhood restaurant.
Opened in 1992, Dulces made a name for itself
as a tiny West Seattle bakery and cafe. Three
years later it was reborn in its larger but still
intimate Madrona setting, where it flirted briefly
with the breakfast trade before concentrating
solely on the dinner. Like so many neighborhood
restaurants, it has been embraced by patrons who
share its zip code - though it deserves greater
recognition as a destination dining spot for those
who don't.
Since I first fell for the place, charmed as much
by the mood as the food, this unpretentious bistro
has taken an upscale turn in a restaurant-happy
slice of real estate near 34th and Union.
On weekend nights you might spy gal pals drinking
martinis at the bar. Servers, once dressed in
wear-what-you-wills, now wear crisp, black, "Dulces"-embroidered
uniforms.
Even the wine list has grown to impressive length
and breadth. I went bug-eyed over the prices before
realizing that we'd been given two lists: one
with finer offerings dear to most pockets and
another with an abundance of terrific affordable
selections.
Running the room is co-owner and host Carlos Kainz,
whose professional demeanor, coupled with a dose
of Latin suave, could make him a fortune - if
he could bottle that. He's partnered here and
at home with chef Julie Guerrero, who works behind
a cinched swath of velvet curtain in a cutaway
kitchen, meeting and greeting with a saucepan
in one hand, tongs in the other. Born and raised
in Seattle, Guerrero is a Seattle Central Community
College culinary-school grad whose exceptional
desserts - including an extraordinary pecan pie,
cajeta (a Mexican caramel and chocolate tart),
and a changing roster of exceptional bread puddings
- explain why the restaurant takes the Spanish
name for "sweets."
Kainz and Guerrero share a Mexican heritage, one
that informs the menu but does not exclusively
define it. Guerrero is not doing trendy "Nuevo
Latino" in her corner kitchen. Sure, she
does "Latino" - as evident in her potent,
cornmeal-crusted, cheese-stuffed chiles rellenos
in an irresistibly complex pumpkin-seed sauce.
But there's nothing too "nuevo," Latino
or otherwise, about such French classics as an
Alsatian onion tart or her Italian-influenced
veal scaloppini - swaddled, one night, in a creamy
chanterelle and shiitake mushroom sauce.
There's a cross-cultural marriage in the red-pepper
ravioli, plumped with mozzarella and ricotta and
swinging to a Latin beat with an infusion of chorizo
and cilantro. Prawns la diabla, in a butter sauce
hinting of orange and sparked with chilies, is
a spicy starter worthy of every last swipe of
crusty bread.
Calamari, sautéed and tweaked with balsamico and
fresh herbs, mingles with olive oil, garlic, and
tomatoes. Delightful warm, it was even better
when left to cool through the soup or salad course
included with entrees. Dulces' house greens come
punched up with excellent dressings, including
a stellar vinaigrette flavored with walnut oil
and smoky roasted walnuts.
Pumpkin soup perfumed the air even before I saw
it, the aromatic curry more scent than taste,
lightly balanced with coconut milk and fresh ginger.
A rustic rendering of white beans, pork sausage,
duck breast, and chorizo in a tomato-enhanced
broth was another near-perfect soup du jour. Perfect
except for one thing: What we'd ordered was cassoulet
- as an entree. Turns out that shortcoming was
a busy-night blunder; someone hadn't bothered
to stir the pot before ladling. Sampled again
on a more tranquil weeknight, it was appropriately
thick, rich, and soul-satisfying.
Many entrees are available in half-portions, including
a stunning thyme and horseradish encrusted rack
of lamb escorted by a homey apple chutney. With
two meaty ribs, new potatoes, and a spray of crisp
green vegetables, this proved a steal at $11.50
- even without the soup or salad accompaniment.
Every bit as delicious was the pairing of a meaty,
golden Dungeness crabcake and a trio of scampi
sautéed in a buttery Provencale sauce.
Guerrero's classic paella - lightly saffron-scented
rice lavished with meats, shellfish, and fin fish
- is a solid interpretation that falls short of
great, though not by much. The same could be said
of Dulces.
Nancy Leson is the restaurant critic for The Seattle
Times. Her reviews appear Thursdays in Ticket.
Dulces Latin Bistro
1430 34th Ave
Seattle
Dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5:00pm-9:30pm, Friday-Saturday
5:00pm-10:00pm. Appetizers: $8-$14, Entrees: $18-$32
(half-portions available). Lounge, full bar. Major
credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Reservations: (206) 322-5453. |
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(206)
322-5453
